South Africa’s fashion scene has gradually earned its rightful place on the global stage, blossoming in recent years.
This resurgence is not just a transformation in aesthetics but a profound expression of cultural identity, where designers weave narratives that resonate deeply with not only local but international audiences.
The landscape is rich with innovation and creativity, as emerging talent breathes new life into this vibrant sector, showcasing garments that embody the diverse tapestry of South African heritage.
However, this artistic expression has not always been celebrated.
For decades, strictly regulated by the oppressive regime of apartheid, South African fashion was stifled, much like the fundamental human rights of its people.
As we celebrate Human Rights Day, we delve into how fashion has played a critical role in the struggles this country has faced.
During apartheid in South Africa, fashion served as a tool for both resistance and the expression of identity, with traditional attire used to defy racist notions and showcase cultural pride.
For example, wearing traditional Xhosa attire became a powerful act of defiance and a way to assert identity in the face of oppression, as seen with Nelson Mandela’s attire during his trial.
The vibrant isiShweshwe fabric, often printed with images of Nelson Mandela, became a symbol of resistance and solidarity, worn by both black South Africans and those who opposed apartheid.
And, in the townships, fashion emerged as a way to express resistance and comment on life under a repressive regime, including the oppressive police presence and systemic poverty.
At the time, fashion was largely dominated by international brands and trends from Europe, but in small ways, the people of South Africa made their statement through what they wore.
In 1997, the first South African Fashion Week was launched by Lucilla Booyzen after years of working as a model and producing fashion shows in both Europe and South Africa.
It started with 17 designers, ushering in a new era for a country looking to redefine its identity. Today, SAFW features over 40 designers showcasing their collections.
Design and creative expression were often shackled by political limitations, rendering a once vibrant industry largely invisible on the world stage.
Yet, much like the political resistance that defined that era, the South African fashion industry has made a compelling comeback, reclaiming its voice through colour, texture and movement.
As today’s designers draw inspiration from their roots, the masterpieces they create reflect a proud, resilient culture.
Traditional patterns and indigenous textiles have been reimagined and adapted, sending powerful messages that transcend borders.
South African designers are boldly pushing boundaries, challenging the global narrative of fashion to include diverse perspectives and fresh interpretations.
Among the vanguard of this movement are names such as Thebe Magugu, who became the first South African designer to win the prestigious LVMH Prize in 2019 and Palesa Mokubung, whose work collaborates closely with local artisans, intertwining modernity with tradition.
Most recently, popular designer, MaXhosa showcased his Maxhonaissance SS 24/25 collection, which transposed history, symbolism and craft techniques like beading into light, modern silhouettes.
The collection aimed to redefine the perception of premium African fashion.
Laduma Ngxokolo, the chief creative director, said: “For this collection, we wanted to define what luxury means to us as a brand – beyond the preconceived ideas of a colonial representation of the continent.
“At MaXhosa Africa we believe luxury is as much about refinement and craftsmanship as it is about an individual representation of culture that is imbued with a spiritual legacy and a sense of individuality that makes it at once modern and historic.
“Through our manufacturing processes, we 100% empower the next generation of fashion designers and technicians committed to sustainable production.”
These artists, along with many others, are not just crafting clothing; they are producing a narrative that is intrinsically linked to the broader conversation of identity, history and transformation.
As the South African fashion scene marches forward, one thing remains steadfast: the industry is a reflection of a nation, not just its past struggles, but its aspirations for the future.
The choice to reclaim and redefine what South African fashion means today speaks volumes to the resilience of a society that has faced adversity.
