Every March, Ghana celebrates its independence and cultural heritage during Ghana Month. The country comes alive with vibrant displays of Kente cloth, handwoven Fugu, and the intricate patterns of Adinkra and Tie-dye. But behind this colourful celebration lies a crisis threatening the very fabric of the nation. Ghana faces growing challenges associated with textile waste.
While the trade in second-hand clothing began with good intentions, the trade has evolved into a dynamic but complex system, raising concerns about environmental degradation, economic strain, and public health. While the global fashion industry thrives, Ghana shoulders the hidden cost of its waste with overflowing landfills, choked waterways, worsening floods, poisoned air, and a broken circular economy.
This is not a new problem. For over a decade, researchers, NGOs, and both local and international partners have sounded the alarm through studies, reports, and pilot projects. However, despite all these warnings, conversations, and projects that have been done on textile waste, implementation has lagged.
The Rise of Obroni Wawu and the Collapse of Local Sustainability.
Ghana’s relationship with used clothing, locally known as obroni wawu (“dead white man’s clothes”), dates back to the 1960s. Initially, these imported garments arrived as charity, filling clothing gaps in communities in need. Over time, the trade evolved into a lucrative industry. Today, second-hand clothes have become a staple of the local fashion economy. In 2023 alone, Ghana imported over $93 million worth of used garments, mainly from the United States, the United Kingdom, and China (UN Comtrade, 2023).
Markets like Kantamanto in Accra and Kejetia in Kumasi are now bustling hubs where thousands of traders, many of them women, make a living through repairing, reselling, and repurposing used clothing. Yet, beneath this entrepreneurial spirit lies a brutal economic and environmental reality; the majority of these clothes are not wearable.
The OR Foundation, a non-profit working closely with Kantamanto traders, estimates that around 40% of clothing imports become immediate waste, much of which ends up in informal dumpsites or is burned, posing health risks and contributing to air pollution. In contrast, the Ghana Used Clothing Dealers Association (GUDCA) disputes these figures, suggesting that only 5% of imports become waste. This stark contrast underscores the need for transparent, data-driven analysis and accountability.
Every week, approximately 15 million garments, primarily secondhand clothing, arrive at Ghana’s ports, predominantly from the Global North. While this trade supports thousands of livelihoods in places like Accra’s Kantamanto Market, it also generates an overwhelming amount of textile waste.
The impact is visible and devastating. Take the Korle Lagoon in Accra, once a thriving water body, now a dumping ground for textile waste. Or the flooded streets of Accra, where choked drainage systems filled with discarded clothing worsen every rainy season.
In 2023, the World Bank approved $150 million under the Greater Accra Resilient and Integrated Development (GARID) Project to manage flood risks partly caused by textile and plastic waste blocking drains.
Most of these textile waste contains synthetic polyester, nylon, and acrylic, and will take hundreds of years to decompose. They also leach microplastics into rivers and oceans, contaminate food chain systems, and contribute to air and water pollution.
Burning unsellable clothes, a common disposal method, releases hazardous toxins like dioxins and furans. These contribute to rising respiratory illnesses among traders and residents in nearby communities. Landfills such as Kpone are overflowing, with clothing waste spilling into informal settlements and local streams.
Though the second-hand trade supports livelihoods and provides affordable clothing, the cost of managing this waste far exceeds the benefits. The Ministry of Sanitation and Water Resources estimates that millions of cedis are spent annually clearing textile waste from drains and dumpsites.
Meanwhile, Ghana is missing out on the economic potential of a circular textile economy. Globally, less than 1% of textile waste is recycled into new clothing. According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2022), Ghana could generate over $100 million annually by investing in textile recycling infrastructure, creating green jobs and boosting local industry.
Bridging the Gap Between Research and Action
One idea gaining traction is the implementation of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) policies, which require fashion brands to manage post-consumer waste. Though Ghana currently lacks mandatory EPR laws for textiles, conversations are gaining momentum. In 2022, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation flagged Ghana as a critical country for EPR adoption. Other organisations like Landfills2Landmarks have also hosted events highlighting the game-changing potential of such policies.
Scale up successful recycling models. Initiatives like Upcycle Ghana have shown the potential of transforming textile waste into insulation, household goods, and fashion accessories. However, these projects remain small-scale due to limited funding. If investment can go into recycling plants, incentivising upcycling startups, and partnering with academic institutions to refine technology, Ghana can turn waste into wealth.
Empower the Kantamanto community. Kantamanto’s traders are not just victims, they’re innovators. They’ve developed Pre-shipment quality control proposals, Waste collection cooperatives, and upcycled fashion microenterprises. Their ideas, documented in studies by WIEGO and the OR Foundation (2020–2023), remain overlooked by policymakers. Empowering trader-led initiatives like the Kantamanto Resilience Fund could provide microgrants, training, and leadership in waste reduction.
Launch a national awareness campaign. In order to change behaviour, Ghana must invest in public education about fashion waste, sustainable consumption, and local textile pride. Campaigns celebrating Ghana-made garments and discouraging disposable fashion could reduce demand for fast fashion imports and revive support for local artisans.
Invest in Local Research and Data Synthesis. Several organisations have conducted research on Ghana’s textile waste crisis, but the findings often vary and lack coherence. There is an urgent need for the government and key stakeholders to invest in comprehensive, nationally representative research to establish accurate data. Synthesising existing research and aligning recommendations can serve as a solid foundation for informed policymaking and practical solutions.
The Pathforward
The European Union is already taking bold steps to solve the textile waste crisis through its Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), and mandatory EPR laws require brands to ensure garments are durable, recyclable, and responsibly discarded. By 2030, textiles sold in the EU must meet strict environmental criteria.
I believe we in Ghana cannot afford to wait for change abroad to trickle down. We must develop homegrown policies to protect our people, our environment, and our cultural identity.
Our ancestors wore garments that were handmade, meaningful, and enduring. Today, that legacy is under threat due to pollution, inaction, and exploitation.
The issue of textile waste in Ghana raises more questions than answers.
- Who should bear the cost of disposing of second-hand fashion waste?
- Can upcycling create meaningful, long-term jobs?
- Should we regulate the volume or quality of second-hand imports?
- How can Ghana’s young innovators help shape a circular future?
With growing interest in projects like Landfills2Landmarks, Worn Again Ghana, and the rise of EPR advocacy, the question remains: How might Ghana and its partners shape a future where culture, commerce, and sustainability coexist?” Will Ghana continue as a dumping ground or rise as a global leader in circular fashion innovation?
The next time you see a pile of burning clothes in Kantamanto or a flooded street in Accra, remember that the problem is not inevitable. It may be a consequence of policy choices, consumer habits, or global inequality.
It’s time to start that conversation.
What are your thoughts? Should Ghana develop its fashion waste regulations or adapt existing global models? How can we empower local innovators to lead the way?
Join the dialogue. Share your views. The path to a circular fashion future begins with bold questions and even bolder collaborations.
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The writer is a Development Communicator and SDG Advocate. She can be reached via email at [email protected]
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