The word ‘Ōku’ has three literal meanings.
Used in Japanese and Chinese language, the most apt description of “private, intimate, and deep” is the one that most resonated with me when visiting the Asian restaurant by the same name in Franschhoek.
In a tourist town littered with French Huguenot influences, it’s refreshing to see a quaint Asian eatery tucked away on the main road.
Headed up by Chef Ryan Shell, Ōku Asian Eatery and its sister restaurant Yama Sushi Emporium, were both opened in 2020 just as the global pandemic hit.
Considering the array of fine dining restaurants dotting the Franschhoek area, Chef Ryan took a gamble by opening not one, but two establishments. Lucky for him, his perseverance paid off.
I visited Ōku on a rainy day in early December – the perfect accompaniment to the restaurant’s warm, muted tones and minimalist decor.
Staying authentic to the Asian theme, the dining area resembled a Japanese homestead, undiluted with pretty trinkets while preserving its unstuffy, welcoming air. Little bonsai plants strategically placed within eyesight balanced the aesthetic.
And that’s what you want when visiting a place that specialises in a particular cuisine. Yes, the food stays true to its heritage, but what about the rest?
Which brings us to the menu.
An experienced young chef, Ryan Shell has a list of credentials that lets you know you’re in good hands. Making fresh, seasonal produce the star of each dish, Chef Ryan’s passion for cooking is hard to ignore with the introduction of the Kaiseki set menu (a style of traditional Japanese cuisine in which a series of small dishes are prepared).
An offering of several courses, our waiter highly recommended it. Patrons also have a choice of pairing it with specially accompanied wines or sakes. And there’s a vegetarian option which we swapped out with certain dishes.
Each dish was prepared with such theatrical flourish that at times, it pained me to eat just a tiny morsel. Oh, but once those flavours hit your palette, it’s an orgasmic communion of flavours, including sweet, salty and fresh.
The set menu consisted of beef tataki served with nori, wasabi mayo and pickled ginger (hands down, my favourite); roasted edamame, Chinese cabbage, crispy squid, sesame and sriracha; prawn bao bun, cabbage kimchi, black bean chilli and ponzu.
Don’t think because these are small tasting plates that you’ll go home hungry. I underestimated my appetite, and by the fifth course, that feeling of being full set in.
Pace yourself because you have to make it to dessert – Japanese cheesecake with apple, ginger and sunflower seeds. Your sweet tooth will thank you for it.
There’s also a special surprise, but I’m not going to spoil it for you.
People are still feeling the financial effects of the pandemic. WIth the price of food and petrol going up, eating out has become a guilty pleasure.
But if you ever find yourself on that side of the world, indulge that guilty pleasure at Ōku. They’re also open for online orders if staying in Franschhoek.
The Kaiseki set menu starts at R895. Bookings are essential.
Visit: https://eat-oku.co.za/
